” The sky is ever sensed above Canada.” – Russian writer Andrei Voznesensky in 1971

Travellers headed west out of Calgary towards the mountains are focused on the growing Rockies, but the first thing that strikes me every time I drive east from the stampede city is the big sky.

Construction delay near Cardston, Alberta, looking west towards the Rocky Mountains

Perhaps it’s because I can’t see over the horizon that my eyes are drawn upwards into the endless expanse of sky. Unlike the Rockies, the land is so flat and sparse in much of the Canadian Badlands that I can literally see forever. The sense of space is irresistible.

This part of Canada tends to have the most clear days and the most sunlit hours in all of the country. But when a storm approaches, it can be seen for miles.

Open road near Cypress Hills in the Canadian Badlands

BIG sky dominating the landscape. You can’t help but aim your camera skyward to capture the cloud formations. Land fertile and green from irrigation or rain abruptly changing to desert and sagebush as we descend into one of the river valleys.

Abandoned homestead near Little Bow Provincial Park

Abandoned grey-timbered homesteads dating back to the dirty 30s. Bright yellow canola fields contrasted against stands of dark green spruce. Miles and miles of prairie wheat waving in the constant wind. Mini dry bed river valleys intersecting the prairie – the locals call these coulees. Big river valleys too, dotted with hills that look like giant beehives. Each has distinctive black rings that we’re told are veins of coal and other minerals. Massive mushroom-like rock formations unlike anything we’ve seen before. No traffic. In fact, NONE for hours as we drove along the back gravel roads between Cypress Hills and Foremost.

Mother Mountain Tea House, Delia, Alberta

Lots of tiny towns with false storefronts just like old spaghetti westerns. Places with names like Etzikom, Rowley, Champion and Cereal. A store in some, open, maybe. Few if any people milling about save for the odd old man.

The Halkirk Hotel and Halkirk's last remaining grain elevator

Old hotels run by middle-aged chinese couples with very little english.

Pick up trucks of all types, some old, some new. Weathered churches and grain elevators. Off-the-beaten-track Canada. Amazing road stories.

The Delburne Hotel and Cafe