In the Canadian Badlands between Cypress Hills and Etzikom, Alberta

Even though we’re big travelers of Canada, there’s still plenty to see. Canada is so big and the average vacation so short ( 2 weeks) that it’s difficult to cover a lot of ground. One way to do it is a fly-drive.

Hoodoos and beehive hills near Drumheller, Alberta

A 4-hour flight west from Toronto will put you in Calgary. A car rental and an hour later and you’re in southeastern Alberta, a landscape so foreign from central Canada that a travel writer from Toronto described it as reaching out and slapping her. 63 municipalities have coined it the Canadian Badlands and aim to make it Canada’s next iconic travel destination (just like the Canadian Rockies, an hour west of Calgary).  From a road trip perspective, we think it’s already there.

The massive prairie landscape is intersected by river valleys with hills that look like giant beehives. The valleys are part of a prehistoric sea that once occupied a good portion of North America. Wind and water have stripped away the sandstone and they’ve revealed something else. Dinosaur fossils. Millions of them. Two places to learn about the biggest finds are Dinosaur Provincial Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the Royal Tyrrell Museum, the world’s largest devoted to palaeontology.

If you love driving but hate traffic, this is the place. Armed with an Alberta road map and GPS, we crisscrossed the region by paved and gravel road, sometimes not seeing another car for the better part of two hours.  Gas stations are scarce though. So are corner stores and other things that we take for granted in the city. Topping off the gas tank and having lots of drinking water in the car quickly became necessities.

Streetcar in downtown Toronto, Ontario

On the Trans-Canada Highway west of Brooks, Alberta

Open road near Cypress Hills in the Canadian Badlands

BIG sky dominating the landscape. You can’t help but aim your camera skyward to capture the cloud formations. Land fertile and green from irrigation or rain abruptly changing to desert and sagebush as we descend into one of the river valleys.

Abandoned homestead near Little Bow Provincial Park

Abandoned grey-timbered homesteads dating back to the dirty 30s. Bright yellow canola fields contrasted against stands of dark green spruce. Miles and miles of prairie wheat waving in the constant wind. Mini dry bed river valleys intersecting the prairie – the locals call these coulees. Big river valleys too, dotted with hills that look like giant beehives. Each has distinctive black rings that we’re told are veins of coal and other minerals. Massive mushroom-like rock formations unlike anything we’ve seen before. No traffic. In fact, NONE for hours as we drove along the back gravel roads between Cypress Hills and Foremost.

Mother Mountain Tea House, Delia, Alberta

Lots of tiny towns with false storefronts just like old spaghetti westerns. Places with names like Etzikom, Rowley, Champion and Cereal. A store in some, open, maybe. Few if any people milling about save for the odd old man.

The Halkirk Hotel and Halkirk's last remaining grain elevator

Old hotels run by middle-aged chinese couples with very little english.

Pick up trucks of all types, some old, some new. Weathered churches and grain elevators. Off-the-beaten-track Canada. Amazing road stories.

The Delburne Hotel and Cafe