New Brunswick is a Tasty Choice for Summer Travel

In recent years the province of New Brunswick, particularly the cities of Fredericton and Saint John, has developed a reputation for fine dining, excellent accommodation and, as we soon discovered, a knack for creative cocktails, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic.

Fredericton is a leafy, laidback provincial capital built along the banks of the Saint John River. It’s the cultural centre of New Brunswick. With a population of just 65,000 it boasts two universities, a Playhouse, a lively music scene including a Symphony Orchestra and, most remarkably, the world class Beaverbrook Art Gallery with major works by British artists Turner, Constable and Gainsborough as well as a rich Canadian and Indigenous collection. The gallery’s masterpiece is probably Salvador Dali’s Santiago El Grande, the massive 13 by 10 foot painting created for the Spanish pavilion at the 1958 Brussels Worlds Fair.

During our three day visit we were fortunate to stay at the Quartermain House B&B, just a ten minute walk from downtown. Built adjacent to the river in the 1840s, the three bedroom property with its beautiful gardens has been rated as the best Bed and Breakfast in North America. Host Debra Quartermain takes great pride in her comfortable rooms and deluxe amenities. Her creative, substantial breakfast included fresh berries, yogurt, omelet with aged cheddar and asparagus, blueberry crisp and a Virgin Mimosa.

Our goal on this trip was to find the best food and drink (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) the two cities had to offer. Dinner on our first night in Fredericton set a high standard.

The 11th Mile Restaurant on York Street is owned by Jennie Wilson and her Chef/Husband Peter Tompkins. Promoting locally sourced ingredients they offer modern Canadian cuisine in small sharable portions on vintage family china. We particularly enjoyed a scallion pancake with tangy dipping sauce, a chilled shrimp salad with cucumber ribbons and crispy pork tacos on homemade tortillas. Most impressive was a crispy roasted half cauliflower with creamy miso cashew dressing, topped with drizzles of guajillo chili sauce and pickled onions. A vegetarian dish hearty enough for a main course! Our dessert was a tender almond torte topped with whipped cream and rhubarb. It was here that we had our first taste of the craft cocktails (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) for which New Brunswick has become well known.

Another meal we particularly enjoyed was at the Feel Good, a café with its own smoker, turning out a delicious croque monsieur (smoked brisket, mornay sauce, old cheddar, Korean BBQ sauce and brioche bread) and Cubano sandwich featuring pork shoulder and mojo sauce (citrus and cilantro). We also enjoyed the unique flavours at the Hana Ethiopian Café and the Indigenous-owned Wolastoq Wharf Seafood Restaurant (outstanding lobster and salmon dishes).

One evening we discovered that the bar manager at the Marriott Delta Fredericton Hotel made wonderful looking and tasting cocktails beyond the usual standards. Sandra enjoyed a Lemonade Ukranian Mule (vodka, lemonade, ginger beer, lime and mint) while John had a colourful Blueberry Mojito with blueberry syrup, lime, club soda, mint and fresh blueberries.

Our most interesting and complex Fredericton cocktails were prepared by talented mixologist Kanye Eustache at the Provincial Bar and Lounge. Using fresh squeezed juices and several locally distilled spirits, his drinks were complex and very satisfying. Sandra had an “Internal Imagery”, vodka, pisco, strawberry syrup, red pepper syrup, fennel, lime and rhubarb bitters while John’s non-alcoholic cocktail called “Mo Money” included granny smith apple juice, celery juice, lime and cardamom syrup.

Kanye Eustache admitted that his main competition as a mixologist who invents and prepares outstanding mixed drinks comes from New Brunswick’s largest city, Saint John. Eric Scouten runs Kakuteru Lounge, a small Japanese inspired cocktail and conversation venue with just 12 seats and furnishings from a decommissioned Baptist church. Small snacks are always available but Eric, winner of a national mixologist competition, specializes in unique cocktails – house made simple syrups, fruit leathers, fruit compotes and ingredients he forages. He uses five high end non-alcoholic spirits for cocktails without liquor and delights in his creativity. He makes drinks to order (Sandra wanted something not too sweet made with dark rum and fruit) and often uses smoke to add an extra flavor element. It works especially well with non-alcoholic cocktails.

With thirteen microbreweries, cideries and distilleries in Saint John it’s not surprising that numerous excellent restaurants are located here. Always popular is the Saint John Ale House where celebrity chef Jesse Vergen offers upscale pub food and a wide variety of locally brewed craft beer. His Scallop Risotto is outstanding. The Italian By Night restaurant includes a kitchen-side Chef’s Table where the chef can prepare a custom menu. But the most popular restaurant in Saint John is, surprisingly, a vegetarian and vegan venue. VEGolution, located next to the historic City Market, is TripAdvisor’s top restaurant recommendation in Saint John and, in fact, all of New Brunswick.

Keith Broome, owner and Executive Chef at VEGolution, wanted to be a chef since age 16 and after training at several local restaurants took polls to discover a strong local appetite for a high quality vegan eatery. As omnivores we were skeptical about an all vegetarian meal but were delighted with Chef Broome’s talent and creativity. His Korean Sticky Soy Bits tasted just like pork in a sweet sauce and customers love his Revolution Cheeseburger (brown rice, mushrooms and walnuts).

For accommodation in the city it’s hard to beat the Saint John Hilton, located directly on the waterfront near the famous Reversing Falls and adjacent to the modern cruise ship terminal. The hotel is linked via pedway to many shops and services. It’s an ideal venue from which to enjoy all the city of 75,000 has to offer.

New Brunswick doesn’t get the tourism profile enjoyed by some other provinces. But in addition to its scenic splendors, the excellent and often unique accommodation, food and beverage services make it well worth the trip.

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