Canadian Roadstories

Stories & Pictures about Canadian People, Places and Things

Social

  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
  • Home
  • Canadian People
  • Canadian Places
  • Canadian Things
  • Canada’s First Peoples
  • About

Cabot Trail Nova Scotia

July 11, 2014 by Judy 55 Comments

Skyline Trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Nova Scotia

My first impression of the Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia – WOW!
This Canadian road trip is one of the world’s best. GO! for heaven’s sake. It’s worth the trip to Nova Scotia just to go on the Cabot Trail.

…….

The Cabot Trail follows a rugged Atlantic coast in the Cape Breton Highlands of Nova Scotia, Canada. Most travel the 298 kilometre (185 mile) route in summer but we traveled it in early September. If you like fall colours, try the Cabot Trail in mid October. We were told that’s when Nova Scotia’s colours generally peak, a good two weeks after other parts of Canada, including Quebec and most of Ontario.

More first impressions…

The strength of Nova Scotia’s Acadian culture

It still thrives along the eastern portion of the Cabot Trail. The dead giveaway is the distinctive red, white and blue Acadian flag which you see everywhere. Le Co-op in Chéticamp is one of many places where you can find traditional Acadian fare. I ordered a fish soup and freshly-made molasses bread before heading to the little craft shop next door. Hooked rugs are a Chéticamp tradition. A sweet little one made by an 86 year old local made it home with me.

In the 1740s Louisbourg was an important French fishing port and the third largest port in North America after Boston and New York. It was also the centre of Acadian culture. Although not on the Cabot Trail, it is close enough and worth a visit. I could not believe the massive size of present-day Louisbourg but Parks Canada staff who operate the national historic site told us it’s a fraction of what the original walled port was. The quality of craftsmanship is extraordinary and so is the interpretation. If you go, take a guided “Touching History” tour for a look at some of the port’s archeological finds. Point of View Suites is on the water in the little town of Louisbourg with a view of the fortress. It operates a Beggars Banquet – an 18th century style dinner theatre – on the property, so this is where we ended our day.

Acadian Culture cabot trail

Outlandish artifacts of Acadian Culture on the Cabot Trail
…….

The Ceilidh Trail (pronounced “Kay-Lee”) extends the reach of the Cabot Trail down the western shores of Cape Breton. The Gaelic culture in Nova Scotia is far beyond what I imagined. Music seems to ooze out of every soul here. Even in the smallest of towns you can find a Ceilidh or social gathering with Gaelic folk music and dancing. The Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in the tiny village of Judique serves a good lunch accompanied by a noon-hour Ceilidh. It’s also interactive. I took a fiddle lesson and even tried a jig. Nova Scotia’s Gaelic College is another good stop. This is the base for the Celtic Colours International Festival in October, when hundreds of musicians descend on the island to play and party. It’s also where you can order a hand-sewn kilt, custom-made. Canadian comedian Rick Mercer covered these “nine days of celtic madness” awhile back.

Mountains
The Cape Breton Highlands have a very different feel than the Rocky Mountains in BC, especially in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Unfortunately, we had a major downpour when we drove through the park, so not much hiking. Next time, the Skyline Trail with its spectacular vistas will be our first trail.

Glenora barrels cabot trail

Glenora Distillery near Mabou, Nova Scotia
…….

Nova Scotia single malt whisky
We wrote about Glen Breton Single Malt awhile back when we paired it with some delish New Brunswick smoked salmon. On this trip I got to see the Glenora distillery and drink its spring water, which is what makes this single malt so smooth. We had a good dinner here and I just might be back to stay in one of the distillery’s hillside chalets come fall when colours are at their peak.

Captain Marks whale watching cabot trail

Captain Mark’s Whale & Seal Cruise
…….

The Gulf of the St. Lawrence and pilot whales
One, I didn’t realize one side of the Cabot Trail is on the Gulf of the St. Lawrence and, two, I had never seen pilot whales before. We saw a couple of pods feeding on mackerel close to shore. We also saw a molly (NOT the aquarium variety) which our Captain said was rare. These massive sunfish usually prefer warmer waters.

Good food and lodging
The best oatcakes I think I’ve had anywhere are served at Inverary Resort in Baddeck. The dinner at Pictou Lodge in Pictou, our last meal, was exceptional. I also loved the Highland Sitting Room at the Keltic Lodge.

Happy Trails.

cabot trail map

Map of the Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia
…….

Dan Kirwan reminisces about touring Cabot’s trail in 1951, before the highway was built…

The Skyline Sunset Hike in Cape Breton Highlands National Park is one of the Canadian Tourism Commission’s Canadian Signature Experiences.

A big thank you to Visit Nova Scotia and Destination Cape Breton for making our trip possible.

cabot trail

Much of the Cabot Trail overlooks the sea.
…….

ROADstories logo slug

Filed Under: Canada, Canadian Places Tagged With: Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia

Comments

  1. Jude Boudreaux says

    October 18, 2021 at 12:15 am

    We’re planning our Nova Scotia road trip for next summer, this was such a great help! Thanks!

    Reply
    • Judy says

      October 18, 2021 at 10:39 am

      Many thanks, Jude. I hope you and family enjoy Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail. If you have time, the North Shore of Cape Breton is also worth an explore. It’s easy to access from the trail and if you like to camp, the Hideaway Campground has nice glamping/ campsites with a view. We wrote about the North Shore at https://roadstories.ca/northern-cape-breton-island/

      Reply
      • Memo says

        May 8, 2023 at 11:18 pm

        thanks for the info. we were planning for a road trip to the skyline 2 years ago but I have an accident we delayed it. now i can walk but not as normal as i was. my problem is my ankle.

        I wonder does reaching the skyline requires hiking or we can reach there by car.??
        we plan to reach there close to sunset. is there any camp site in the area that allow car to be parked? very close to the skyline as we cannot drive in the dark ?

        thanks a lot

        Reply

Trackbacks

  1. 10 Canadian Food Finds - Canadian Roadstories says:
    July 7, 2017 at 3:35 pm

    […] who makes them from scratch at Inverary Resort. He was such a nice guy, he gave me a batch for our Cabot Trail road trip. Here’s his famous oatcake […]

    Reply
  2. Northern Cape Breton Island says:
    March 28, 2021 at 6:01 pm

    […] off of the Cabot Trail. The ‘Coastal Loop’ hugs the northwestern shore of Cape Breton, north of Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Watch for the turn off from the Cabot Trail after you pass South Harbour. Our favourite stop along […]

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Previous
Bowen Island
Next
Nova Scotia’s Fortress of Louisbourg
  • Home
  • Canadian People
  • Canadian Places
  • Canadian Things
  • Canada’s First Peoples
  • About